This complex and refreshing rosé forestalled an impending diatribe, re: tank-bleed rosé. One of three methods for making pink wine, saignée de cuvée is the lyrical French 
term for “tank bleed,” and it means exactly that. The winemaker drains extra juice from a vat of crushed grapes intended for a red fermentation, firstly to intensify the color and tannin in the red wine. As an afterthought, instead of dumping it down the drain (or, say, selling it to Rosso Pizzeria for fresh grape juice cocktails), it’s fermented like a white wine.
It’s a sensible, traditional practice with the payoff of ready-to-drink wine in February, but I found too many thin, uninspiring rosés being palmed off in California tasting rooms. This one’s different, although it’s a kitchen-sink blend of bleeds as described on Ryan Zepaltas’ candid website. The skateboarder turned cellar rat is assistant winemaker at Siduri, the Santa Rosa warehouse winery renowned for endless batches of single-vineyard Pinot Noir, and reputedly responsible for much of the rocking cellar soundtrack. Zepaltas’ label focuses on Pinot and Syrah as well, and the quality of the rosé leftovers bodes well for the rest of the crop.
The Zepaltas 2008 California “Rosé Wine” ($17) is a bright, medium-pink rose color, and is best served chilled, not ice-cold, so that the floral-fruity hibiscus, strawberry, raspberry aromas can open up. Red berry and green berry ride the lean, grassy acidity to a firm finish. Refreshingly dry rosé like this can be enjoyable before dinner on a late summer evening, on its own or with a light and savory appetizer.
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Grilled Figs with Goat Cheese and Prosciutto
Recipe courtesy of Redwood Hill Farm and Chef Jesse Cool of Flea Street Café, Menlo Park.
8 medium ripe figs
2-3 oz. Redwood Hill Farm Fresh Chevre
1/2 – 1 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary
1-2 tsp. chopped fresh chives
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
4 thin slices Prosciutto or salty smoked ham
Raspberries or blackberries to garnish
Cut figs in half, partially leaving one side intact. In a small bowl, combine the Chevre, rosemary, and chives. Place a small amount of the Chevre mixture in the center of the fig and press the sides together. Wrap each fig with half a piece of Prosciutto. Warm for a few minutes, turning once or twice over hot coals, under the broiler, or in a very hot oven. Serve on a platter with fresh berries.
Serves 4 as an appetizer