From the Russian River to the Gualala River, Sonoma County’s north coast is scenic, charming and just out-of-the-way enough to feel exotic. Once you leave the Russian River resorts in the Guerneville area, the crowds thin out, and the space between destinations stretches out like a contented cat.
Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County
Meander Your Way Up the Coast
Begin your journey in Duncans Mills, a few miles from the coast on Highway 116. While it looks like a wide spot along the road, it has a rich history that you can sample at the railroad station turned museum. There are also art galleries, kayak rentals, antique stores, and gift shops.
One of the best restaurants in the area, Cape Fear Café, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, and the prices are reasonable to moderate. The menu is varied, with a good selection of wine and beer, and there is something for even the most sophisticated taste.
Mouth of the River Opens Wide at Jenner
Jenner, at the mouth of the Russian River, is the jumping off point for the north coast. It’s a picturesque village set on the hill above the river. Accommodations are limited to the Jenner Inn, a bed and breakfast, and the River’s End, charming cottages and a restaurant on a bluff overlooking the mouth of the river.
River’s End, with stunning sunsets but no phone or TV, captures the mood of this isolated coast. The cabins are cozy, and have wonderful views of the river, coast and the long strand of beach accessible from nearby Goat Rock.
For food on a modest budget, take the Highway 1 bridge over the river and you’ll find the Sizzling Tandoor on the left. It has great Indian food and reasonable prices.
Fort Ross State Historical Park, Sonoma County
The Russians Came and Stayed Awhile
North of Jenner the hills jut straight up from the sea, and Highway 1 twists from one scenic view to the next. Stop and wander around Russian Gulch Beach, part of Sonoma Coast State Park. From the parking lot, take a walk through a deciduous forest to a cove with small waves lapping the sand.
Fort Ross State Historical Park, established in 1906, preserves the Russian settlement that arose in the early 19th century. It’s a lovely park, with an informative visitors center, the fort and a small beach.
About three miles north of Fort Ross is Timber Cove. The Timber Cove Inn has a huge obelisk sculpture by Benny Bufano. The 93-foot piece of concrete, lead and mosaic titled “The Expanding Universe,” is only a few yards behind the inn.
Past Timber Cove there are a few places to stay. The Stillwater Cove Ranch Lodge and the Salt Point Lodge offer accommodations. Stillwater Cove Regional Park has pleasant campsites and two or three miles of easy trails. Ocean Cove Store also has a private campground.
Awesome Hiking Abounds
Salt Point State Park consists of 6,000 acres of wooded uplands and coastal bluffs and coves. It features 109 campsites, situated on both sides of the highway, along with miles of trails. Hike down to Stump Beach, a deep, steep-sided cove fed by a small creek. Then cross the creek and hike several miles of trails along the bluffs.
Visit Kruse Rhododendron State Reserve in the spring when the rhododendrons are in brilliant bloom. Access is near the northern end of Salt Point. The five miles of trails in the 317-acre reserve range from the upland open forest with rhododendrons that tower overhead to a deeply wooded canyon, complete with moss-covered redwoods and a thick carpet of fallen leaves.
The Sea Ranch is mostly private homes. There is, however, a lodge, and periodic public access paths to the rocky beaches. The Gualala River marks the county line. You can rent kayaks there and a family campground is just up river. Gualala is a good spot for art, food and beachcombing.
Lose yourself for two or three days on this windswept coast and return to the urban jungle refreshed and relaxed.
Story by Meade Fischer
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