Wellington 2007 Sonoma Valley Marsanne

The mountain-sheltered, warm Glen Ellen area is sometimes called Sonoma Valley’s “banana belt.” It’s home to some great, historic patches of Zinfandel, and lately a new breed: Rhône whites and reds. Rhône varietals excel throughout this valley, mirroring colder and warmer regions along the Rhône River from sun-baked Provence to the mountainous north. Despite the staid look of its coats-of-arms label, Wellington Vineyards is a fun and experimental little winery, always planting unusual varietals or coming up with a few barrels from sidelined grapes like Lagrein or Alicante Bouschet. Wellington’s 2007 Sonoma Valley Marsanne ($22) is sourced from just about one acre. It’s a deceptively rich wine: The saltwater taffy aromas nod toward Chardonnay, then take a floral jasmine detour, with marshmallow and white raisin. Pale yellow with a greenish cast in the glass, the palate-coating, broad viscosity comes as a surprise, like a big wet smooch. This Marsanne is one of those oh so French wines that hits the beret on the head.

To put the minerality to good use-and avoid a cloying finish, demands attentive food pairing. So I asked the girl and the fig restaurant, which maintains an all-Rhône wine list, for a suggestion. It looks like I asked the right folks:

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(from proprietor Sondra Bernstein)

California Halibut with Citrus Butter, Morel Mushroom Ragout & Olive Oil Potatoes
Serves 4

Halibut:
2 tablespoons blended oil (canola/olive oil)
1 tablespoon butter
2 pounds California halibut filets, skinless, and cut into 4 ‐ 7 oz portions
Salt & pepper

Preparation:
Season the halibut filets with salt & pepper. In a large sauté pan, place 2 tablespoons of oil blend and sauté filets gently on both sides. Add a small pat of butter towards the end of cooking.

For the Mushrooms:
2 pounds fresh morel mushrooms, cleaned and sliced into 1/8th inch rings
2 tablespoons blended oil (canola/olive oil)
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon minced shallot
2 tablespoons mixed minced herbs (parsley, sage, thyme)
Salt & pepper

Sauté cleaned mushrooms in blended oil with garlic and shallots. Season with salt & pepper and add the herbs towards the end. Set aside.

For the Vegetable Ragout:
1 tablespoon olive oil
½ pound diced pancetta, rendered crispy and drained
1 cup mirepoix, fine dice (carrot, celery, onion, fennel)
morel mushrooms, from above
1 pound fava beans, cleaned, blanched and peeled
2 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock

Heat a medium sauté pan with a thin coating of olive oil until hot. Sauté pancetta and mirepoix until soft. Add the morel mushrooms, fava beans and chicken stock. Simmer.

For the Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes:
2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled, cut
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt & pepper

Preheat oven to 350′. Boil the potatoes until tender. Drain and place the potatoes on a sheet pan in the oven for 5 minutes to dry. Mash or rice
2/3 of the potatoes. Add the remaining pieces of potato. Add the olive oil and season with salt and pepper

For the Citrus Butter:
1 stick unsalted butter/ softened
zest of 1 lemon
zest of 1 orange
zest of 1 lime
1 teaspoon lemon juice

Combine the butter, citrus zest and lemon juice in a mixer. Roll into a log and refrigerate. Slice into ½ inch slices before serving.

To Serve:
Divide the mushroom ragout between four bowls. Top with a mound of olive oil mash potatoes into the center of each bowl. Place the halibut
filets on top. Garnish with a slice of citrus butter.