This Thanksgiving wine pairing started with a special on local brussels sprouts. Those vibrant green cruciferous nuggets, the bitter bane of the young person’s plate, have become all the more sweet and delectable to my adult palate. So there I was, holding a two-pound net full of fresh brussels sprouts. Wine pairing? Hold on: there’s more grub on the stove. Mashed potatoes are a natural compliment, and for the main course, a lean meat–a classic comfort food plate.
Ah, but there’s a different level of comfort for everyone. For the lapsed vegetarian, sometimes there’s nothing so warmly familiar as a nice gluten-and-lentil loaf: bear with me here. Normally, I’d go with a Pinot Noir, with this setup of lean meat–or lean, Not-Meat–plus creamy mashed potatoes and dark greens, especially at this time of year. But there’s another Pinot from that prolific viniferous family: Pinot Blanc, as pale as the November moon, and sometimes nearly as subtly rewarding as its red cousin. Alsatian Pinot Blanc was a great hit at last year’s Thanksgiving; here’s a fine example from closer to home.
The very pale gold Valley of the Moon 2007 Pinot Blanc ($NA; the 2008 release is $18), served cool, has modest aromas of cut dry straw and uncut pear skin; pear cocktail and pineapple flavors linger on a full, sweet mouthfeel balanced with fresh-grape acidity. This is not a sipping wine, this is made for the meal. The sweet sensation evaporates with each bite, retaining a medium-bodied, rich yet palate-refreshing core. You could spend all day sampling Chardonnay to find one that doesn’t compete with the meal like this, or you could just–draw a Blanc.
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James’ Brussels Sprouts and Field Roast, Recidivist Vegetarian Comfort Meal 
Serves 2
12-18 brussels sprouts
2 tbsp. butter
1 ounce mild blue cheese (substitute: grated asiago)
1/4 tsp. dried chili or habanero pepper powder
1 pckg. veggie grain loaf, such as Field Roast Grain Meat Company (T-day substitution: you know, a big bird)
4 Yukon Gold potatoes
2/3 cup milk or half-and-half
2-4 tbsp. butter
1 tbsp. crushed garlic salt
Pepper to taste
Quarter and boil potatoes until soft; drain. Reduce heat to low, add milk, butter, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste. Mash well, stir until creamy; add or reduce liquid to taste. Meanwhile, cover brussels sprouts with water and bring to boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and cut sprouts in half, return to pot on low heat, add butter, cheese and pepper to taste. Stir until melted. Simmer field roast with a half cup water in a nonstick pan, until well heated (or, you know, cook a big bird; however that’s done). Slice and plate with the mash and sprouts. (Vegggie-con-huevos option: Sprinkle with El Yucateco XXXtra Hot Habenero Sauce. The Pinot Blanc can take it–can you?)