With a population of about 1,000 and a village center that’s easy to miss if you’re simply zooming down Hwy. 12 through eastern Sonoma County’s fabled “Valley of the Moon,” Glen Ellen is one of
Cheese plate at the fig cafe. Photo by Andrew Collins
those quintessentially easy-going yet sophisticated Wine Country villages that’s perfect for whiling away an afternoon. This peaceful village is less than a half-mile off Hwy. 12, via Arnold Drive, which parallels gurgling Sonoma Creek.
A few weeks ago I spent a day exploring Glen Ellen’s charmed eateries, winemakers, and shops. I began the morning with a drive a couple of miles up into the vineyard-studded hills about town, where I stopped in the tasting room at Benziger Family Winery, which produces some of the most acclaimed Biodynamic wines in the region – if you’re interested in finding out more, take one of the informative tram tours, which are given daily for $15 per person, on the half-hour, from 11 am until 3:30 pm.
Handmade chocloates at Wine Country Chocolates. Photo by Andrew Collins
I returned to the village center for lunch at the refreshingly unpretentious Glen Ellen Inn, a cozy seafood-driven bistro with a lovely deck off the back – I opted for special of the day, an seared-rare ahi tuna salad. Other notables include the pulled Kahlua pork sandwich, a hearty croque-monsieur, and fire-grilled oysters topped with a lemon-and-dill cream sauce.
I worked my way south down Arnold Drive in the afternoon, to tour the multitude a distinctive food shops inside the Jack London Village Shops, which are set inside an atmospheric sawmill. Stops for me included Wine Country Chocolates – where I snacked on truffles filled with pomegranate and orange-blossom honey, and cinnamon with clover honey. Other spots here worth a look include Raymond Cheesemonger and – just across the street – Eric Ross Winery. The Struttin’ Red Bordeaux-style blend is a find at $24.
Finally, later that evening, a friend took me to dinner at the Fig Cafe & Winebar, an airy, high-ceilinged, urbane spot with a well-priced menu of freshly prepared modern American food. The steamed mussels arrived in a broth of garlic, leeks, and tarragon that ranked among the loveliest I’ve tasted, and a cheese plate featuring several regional and international choices made for a perfect starter. Whatever you do, save a little room for the butterscotch pot de crème for dessert – a rich ending to a boldly flavored day of touring Glen Ellen.
LOVE Glen Ellen! There are so many hidden gems there. The frisée-lardon salad at the Fig Cafe is so yummy. We followed some hand-made signs that led us to the end O’Donnell Lane (right next to the Fig Cafe) and found a great little local farm called B’n'B Farms. They grow tons of organic and seasonal produce plus have home made baked goods. I love all the perks of wandering around small towns.