Once upon a time, Riesling enjoyed a reputation as one of the world’s great wine grapes and was planted throughout California. Popularly called Johannesburg Riesling, it was essential even over hill, in Napa Valley. Today, it’s something of an ugly duckling. Tastes changed, climates better assessed, Chardonnay happened. Only a few acres of the noble grape survive in odd corners.
Not that consumer demand isn’t there; otherwise, big California brand-names like Fetzer and Turning Leaf wouldn’t find it important to keep their shelf space stocked with Riesling–imported from the Pfalz and Baden!
Meanwhile, vintners discovered that the cool Russian River Valley is optimal for Pinot Noir. Might another old world, cool-climate grape, if it got a couple of rows in edgewise, show its stuff here? In this case, yes. Taft Street Winery’s 2008 Russian River Valley Riesling ($16) is a pale hue of green-tinged platinum. Aromas of honeyed apricot and pear counterpoint lean citrus, agave margarita. Likewise, pear-cocktail sweet fruit is tempered by lime-like acidity on the crisp, mineral palate. The liveliness and balance surpasses expectation, and may well please Rhine-biased fans of the varietal.
Pair with light meats, quiche, or fresh vegetarian entrées that are not heavy on cream or tomato. It’s not really a sweet wine to shuttle to the dessert end of the meal; nevertheless, Taft Street’s Mike Tierney suggests this recipe for pear tarts which he says “can be eaten morning, noon or night.”
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CRUSTLESS PEAR/ALMOND TART 
6 1/2 tablespoons butter
1 1/4 cup whole raw almonds
2/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons pear liquor
1/4 cup milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 firm but ripe pears, quartered and cored
Preparation
Preheat over to 350. Grease a 9 inch baking dish or tart pan. Melt 5 tablespoons of butter; let cool. Cut remaining butter into small pieces and set aside. Place almonds and 2/3 cup of sugar in processor. Pulse until finely ground. Transfer to large bowl. In small bowl combine eggs, liquor, milk, vanilla and melted butter and mix well. Add to dry ingredients and mix; then pour into prepared dish. Slice pears crosswise into 1/8 inch slices. Slide onto narrow spatula and place in batter with the small side toward the center. The idea is to have a spoke pattern. Sprinkle with remaining sugar and butter, then place on lower shelf of oven for 10 minutes. Rotate to top shelf and cook until golden brown, about 35 more minutes. Serve warm or let cool.
