Inside Sonoma

Mountain-grown grapes command million-dollar views–and often steep prices, too. What, besides the gorgeous vistas high above the fogline, accounts for this? It may be confusing if you’ve heard that the best Sonoma County grapes are regularly cooled by fog; but in the mountains, they can benefit from a less dramatic diurnal temperature swing–meaning it’s not as hot in the day, and not as cool at night. And there’s sun, sun, sun.

For Cabernet Sauvignon, that’s a perfect recipe for small berries, tough skins, and big tannins. Grapes for Stonestreet’s 2005 Alexander Mountain Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($42) are selected from elevations of 400 to 2,400 feet throughout the sprawling vineyard, owned by Jackson Family Wines. Opaque, the color of ripe blackberries, this Cab may throw some sediment in the bottle. Opening with cedar, berry and tar, a first sip is angular, while a little heat evaporates on the back palate. Black cherry, blackberry flavors lurk darkly under a dusty, chalky dry stream bed of tannin. With some air it shows lively pomegranate character, but while its structure is surely appreciable, it’s no standalone sipper. Even the standard “hearty grill” protocol doesn’t seem up to it: Here’s a food pairing from Stonestreet’s chef that just puts the Cab in the recipe. Plus: meat inside of meat, savory ingredients, smoking pans and searing galore! I think it’ll work.
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Cabernet Braised Beef Flank Steak Roulade

From Stonestreet chef, Taki Laliotitis

Servings:  8

1 each       1½ pound boneless beef flank steak, trimmed
¼ cup       kalamata olives, chopped
1 Tbsp.      garlic, minced
¼ cup       yellow onion, minced
8 oz           ground pork
1 cup         bread crumbs
½ cup       fresh parsley, chopped
½ cup       Parmesan cheese, grated
1 each        egg
¼ cup       olive oil
to taste      kosher salt
to taste      black pepper, ground
¼ cup       balsamic vinegar
2 cup         Stonestreet Alexander Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon
2 cup         beef stock
1 sprig       fresh rosemary
1 sprig       fresh thyme
1 each        bay leaf
Place a large piece of plastic wrap on a counter and put the flank steak on top. Place another piece of plastic wrap on top of the steak. Using a meat mallet or heavy pan, pound the flank steak to uniform thickness of about 1/4 inch.  Remove the plastic wrap. In a bowl combine the next 8 ingredients and season with salt and pepper. Season the steak on all sides and spread the mixture evenly over the top of it. Carefully roll up the steak and mixture into a cylinder and tie with butchers twine every 2 inches. Heat a large oven-proof roasting pan to almost smoking. Add the oil and sear the roulade on all sides until golden brown. Deglaze the pan with Cabernet. Reduce the wine by half. Then add the balsamic, beef stock and herbs. Place in a preheated 280 degrees F oven for 1hour. Check and baste the roulade. The meat should be tender and pull apart with a fork. If it is still tough continue cooking for another 1/2 hour. Remove roulade from oven and let rest for 10 minutes before carving. Strain and reduce cooking liquid until it becomes thick and shiny. Carve roulade into 1 inch thick rounds and glaze your roulades. Serve immediately.