Part of Alice Water’s idea for the “slow” food movement is to connect eaters with the process of making food. The farm to table mentality makes sense, especially if we don’t want to hear our children explaining that milk comes from the containers in the supermarket! Sonoma County gets it – and has been a natural part of the shift towards more wholesome and direct food since the beginning. The cheese makers here have been crafting their dairy using the traditions of their culture, their family, and of the past. That old world knowledge certainly tastes good!
Driving around the county, it is hard to find a road without passing a farm stand, a winery, or at least a sign proclaiming the existence of a working farm – and this is good news. Keeping up the relationship between man, beast, and land takes ever more work as land prices soar and economic instability becomes a reality. These dedicated families have stayed close to their roots, and any visit to Sonoma County should include a taste of their creations.
My list of favorite Sonoma cheeses is so long it will take a few mini-tours to cover them, but here are a few to start with. Remember that goat’s milk has far less lactose than cows milk (sheep’s milk is somewhere in between), and for vegetarians, most of these producers use natural rennet, not derived from animals, a quick call in advance will clear it up if you’ve got further questions. Dietary considerations are important, but once you’ve figured out what’s right for you – get out and start your tour of the Sonoma Cheese Trail!
Let’s begin in Petaluma, one of Sonoma County’s richest dairy countries…
Two Rock Valley Goat Cheese
About five years ago Bonnie Depernerdi was given a few goats to keep her dairy cows company. As a serious dairy gal, she went ahead and bred them, and her husband Don began dreaming of his Grandfather back in Switzerland, who made his own hard, raw goat cheese in the Alps. With more than a gallon of a milk a day, much more than they could drink, he decided to make cheese in the style of his family – he’s a first generation American from Swiss parents. After a few visits to the old country, equipped with cheese making lessons and the proper permits, he did just that, and his incredible raw goat cheese is one of my very favorites. In the summer there are some 30 goats to milk, in the fall and winter the number drops to about 10, but look for Two Rock Valley Cheese at both Santa Rosa and Petaluma Farmers Markets (where you can meet Don in person), at the Pacific Markets around Sonoma County, and at Fiesta Market, Faircrest Market and others. Give him a call and he’d be happy to show you around and introduce you to his sweet goats who graze in the open, picturesque meadow. After visiting this place it’ll be hard not to be dreaming of getting your own goats and making your own cheese too.
7955 Valley Ford Rd., Petaluma, 707.762.6182
Bellwether Farms
For a complete lesson in artisan cheese, Bellwether is your one-stop shop. Find a range of cheeses, mostly soft, like fromage blanc and crème fraiche, pepato (made with peppercorns) and carmody (a partially aged gorgonzola with mild taste and texture like a more vibrant Jack), ricotta and Bellwether’s special San Andreas cheese (an absolutely addictive raw milk sheep’s cheese). Using both cow’s and sheep’s milk, the handmade dairy products here are a mainstay in the best local restaurants like ZaZu, Underwood Bar and Bistro and Rocker Oysterfeller’s. Although they currently don’t offer tours of Bellwether, the cheeses are widely distributed, and especially easy to find now that they’ve added a handy “finder” feature on their website: www.bellwethercheese.com
