Inside Sonoma

It’s times like these that one can truly appreciate a cool, coastal climate. Fogdog is a brand of Freestone Vineyards named for the spotlight of sun that breaks though the fog in this often gray-shrouded, West County hamlet. Last week, according to a Freestone-area Weather Underground station, the sun broke through, and how: to the tune of more than 99 degrees. Hot, but you try upwards of 109, you just try it!

“All the French you need to know” goes the cheeky tagline at Clos du Bois. That as given, perhaps Pinot Grigio is all the Italian you need to know. Sounds simple enough, so now let’s confuse us a little: Pinot Grigio is Italian for the French grape Pinot Gris, which is a mutation of Pinot Noir. In Germany, of course, it’s the lilting and poetic Grauburgunder. Quelle est la différence?

The 2009 Sonoma County Fumé Blanc ($15), is a great summer sipper–for such areas as are currently experiencing summer (August and we’re still waiting in Sonoma County). Assembled from both stainless-steel and barrel-fermented lots of Sauvignon Blanc, this pale, platinum gold fumé gives up just the slightest hint of its days amongst oak and lees, the cool, sea-breeze aroma reminiscent of Brut champagne. Austere lemon and pear cider flavors meet on a palate that’s got the body and weight to linger just long enough, with a lagered tone to the finish. A classy, all-purpose party and event wine, with none of the Chardonnay vs. Sauvignon Blanc drama.

Windsor Oaks Vineyards, 2007 Estate Reserve Chardonnay ($35) has a platinum blonde tinge to its light lemon-gold appearance, and initial aromas of hard cider and appletini, with a hint of caramel—but oak is not dominate. Lemon and toffee flavors enliven a soft, sweet palate that’s not cloying—like kitten fur or cotton candy, the finish is light and buoyant

MORA Estate is a new venture by local chef Fabiano Ramaci. Little wonder that a chef would choose Barbera. In Italy it’s been an important grape for centuries, but in Sonoma County mainly shows up as part of old-vine “field blends” that were popular with Italian farmers in the 19th century. In hotter regions, it’s valued for retaining high acidity all the way to harvest, and that’s where the chef comes in.

Stop thinking about that kind of clone, silly people. The fruit of this intoxicating plant grows proudly under the sun in the good, deep earth, not sadly tethered to tubes in some artificially lit little closet. But this story does begin in the midst of a time of prohibition. In 1927, the smart money was on prunes, but perhaps seeing a light at the end of the Volstead Act, Giovanni Pedroncelli purchased 25 acres of vineyard in Dry Creek Valley.