wagging and slobbering all over the glossy pages of “Winery Dogs of Wine Country” coffee table books in tasting rooms everywhere. The more I explore, however, the more felines I find, quietly waiting for their moment. Sausal proudly informs visitors that they’re with the cats–at least, acquiescing to the reign of two black cats that “have taken over the winery,” they proffer a special blend dedicated to them, made up of odd lots of Zinfandel. Decades ago the family and others who farmed there threw in their lot with Zin, so they have old-vine blocks up to a century old. This wine is from 50 year-old vines.
The 2006 Family Zinfandel, Alexander Valley Estate ($19) has a mature, medium-dark hue, greeting the nose with strawberry jam, wine-soaked oak, red dust and leather. It digs into the palate with sticky brambles, but purrs with sweet strawberry, brambleberry fruit. Ultimately it doesn’t bite like a “big bruiser Zin,” it’s more like a big Bobcat mix farm cat–with trimmed claws.
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Sausal Dungeness Cioppino 
½ cup olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
4 large cloves garlic, minced
1 large carrot, finely diced
1 cup chopped celery
1 small red bell pepper, chopped
2 cans (28oz each) crushed tomatoes with puree
2 bottles (8oz each) clam juice
2 cups Sausal Family Zinfandel
1 bay leaf
1 Tablespoon each fresh basil, thyme, and oregano; minced (or 1 tsp dried)
½ teaspoon each crushed red pepper and fennel seed
Salt and black pepper to taste
½ cup chopped parsley (can reserve some for garnish)
4 Dungeness crabs, cooked and cleaned
2 lbs assorted seafood of your choice: cod, shrimp, mussels, scallops, and/or clams
Heat oil in an 8-quart pot over medium-high. Add onion, garlic, carrot, celery, and bell pepper; cook stirring occasionally, until vegetables are soft but not brown, 12-15 minutes. Add tomatoes, clam juice, Sausal wine, herbs, bay leaf, spices and salt/pepper. Bring to boil; reduce heat, cover and simmer 1 hour. Add parsley. (Can make this base a day or two in advance, refrigerate.)
Cut crab bodies into quarters. Crack legs and claws so sauce will penetrate meat. Cut fish into bite-size pieces.
10 minutes prior to service: add fish, keep simmering
5 minutes prior to service: add crab, shrimp, mussels, scallops, and clams. Return to simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Ladle into wide soup bowls. Garnish with reserve fresh parsley.
Serves 8
