Russian River Vineyards
To be fair to the new, or newish, proprietors of this joint, the time will have to come when we stop referencing the old owners. Meanwhile, longtime visitors to the area might recognize this best as the former Topolos at Russian River Vineyards, purveyors of high-proof Zinfandel, Alicante Bouschet, and sundry other varietals in a little tasting room beneath an iconic redwood structure that evokes the chapel at the Fort Ross colony, as well as the historic hop barns of the area. The tasting room is now upstairs, in the center of the remodeled restaurant, and the iconic peaks of the winery, well, they’re inhabited by a colony of bats. But fear not: After an awkward transition that dragged on for a few years, the new crew has really turned the place around.
In the lobby of Corks restaurant, the tasting room features a simple bar made from a slab
of an old tree. Zinfandel is no longer the main concern here, but excellent Russian River Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah have filled the gap. There’s even a rare Charbono on the menu, too. Fans of Kabinett style Riesling may like the 2009 Chileno Valley Vineyard, Marin County Riesling ($25), with aromas of Aplets and Cotlets and lean, tropical and grapefruit flavors and just a kiss of residual sugar. Winemaker Anthony Austin’s juicy 2008 Bella Sonoma, Sonoma Coast Syrah ($29) shows violet, blueberry and varietally characteristic but faint, feral animal aromas, and a warm finish. In the future, look for a “Bat Blend” special release, to benefit habitat restoration efforts when the winery’s resident colony is evicted from the former “Bride and Groom’s rooms” on the second floor. Although it’s fun, in a gothic sort of way, to think of all the bat brides and bat grooms currently celebrating their nuptials therein…
Russian River Vineyards, 5700 Gravenstein Hwy. N., Forestville. Tasting 11am to 5pm daily. $5 fee. 707.887.3344.
