Rodney Strong Vineyards 2007 Chalk Hill Chardonnay

“I should have been a pair of ragged claws, scuttling across the floors of silent seas,” was a melancholy lament for J. Alfred Prufrock. Raise your nipper if you can relate. But this time of year in

Pairs great with crab cakes

Sonoma County, crabs are actually a rather popular and sought-after bunch. Crab cakes, in particular, are not only a hot topic of conversation, but equally as fun to eat. Fresh, local crab cakes are popping up everywhere: at a recent Valentine’s Day party—I’m sorry, you had just one date?—everyone fell in love—at least, with the crab cakes. I should have been a pair of ragged clauses.

Conventional wisdom says the sea spider snack pairs best with sparkling wine, or Sauvignon Blanc. What about a lively Chardonnay with that breaded and fried crust, piquant veggies and rich sauce?

Looking already like a promising candidate—light gold, tinged lime green—the Rodney Strong 2007 Chalk Hill Chardonnay ($20) delivers aromas of lemon-meringue pie, with a dose of toast and cream that’s more…dignified than the typical butterball; with a rich palate of pineapple, baked apple, and reposado tequila. Reminiscent of minerals, citrus and agave, the crisp finish keeps this medium to full-bodied wine focused. So do not ask, what is it, what is it; let us go and eat on some tasty crab cakes.

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Josh’s Crab Cakes with Sherry Mayonnaise

From Josh Silvers, Syrah Bistro & Wine Bar

Sherry Mayonnaise

3/4 cup mayonnaise

2 teaspoons sherry vinegar

1/2 teaspoon sweet Hungarian paprika

Pinch of cayenne pepper

Crab Cakes

12 ounces fresh lump crabmeat, picked over for shells

1/2 cup mayonnaise

3 tablespoons finely chopped red bell pepper

3 tablespoons finely chopped celery

2 tablespoons finely chopped red onion

1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

About 1 1/2 cups panko (Japanese bread crumbs)

About 1 1/2 cups rice bran oil or canola oil for frying

For the mayonnaise: In a small bowl, combine all the ingredients and stir to blend. Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.

For the crab cakes: In a medium bowl, combine the crabmeat, mayonnaise, bell pepper, celery, onion, parsley, lemon juice, salt and pepper; mix well. Add the panko gradually, a few tablespoons at a time, until the consistency is dry and slightly tacky to the touch. Form into 8 cakes about 2 1/2 inches wide and coat with more panko.

In a large skillet, heat 1/4 inch oil over high heat until it shimmers. Add the crab cakes, working in batches if necessary to avoid crowding pan. Cook until nicely browned, about 3 minutes on each side. Using a slotted metal spatula, transfer to paper towels to drain briefly. Place 2 crab caked on each of 4 salad plates, and serve with the sherry mayonnaise on the side. Makes 4 first-course servings.