It’s just as well that Dennis Mitchell isn’t behind the bar when I drop by this afternoon, because I’m empty-handed. The low-key, affable Mitchell, who manages the tasting room with wife Diane, won’t ask for a bottle of homemade wine from everyone who walks in the door, but if I’ve recently corked a new vintage, I’d do better to stay scarce.
Instead, this gentleman whom I’d never seen before implores me to stay and taste a few wines. Says his name is Eric. Eric Ross? No, winemaker and owner Eric Luse, as it turns out. There is no “Eric Ross” here, but there is – or was – a rooster. One always learns something new here.
Luse is just as interested in learning about his guests. A fellow who walks in with a large format camera inspires a new discussion, while another member of his group, in quirky high spirits – not the designated driver, natch – informs us that she’s concerned about “the singularity,” (after which, presumably, computers will be better than us even at enjoying wine, or something like that) a sobering thought until Luse cracks just the right joke.
A former journalist, as photographer for the San Francisco Chronicle, Luse joined a small but noteworthy club of colleagues (Williams Selyem’s Burt Williams, for one) when he left the city for the cellar in the 1990s. Today, he makes wine in a shared facility elsewhere, while the rustic shack across from the historic Grist Mill on Arnold Drive houses only the tasting room.
Eric Ross might release a Chardonnay now and then, and a Saralee’s Vineyard Pinot Noir ($45) for the past 17 years, but a focus on offbeat varietals often yields interesting finds like the 2010 Bokisch Vineyard Albariño ($25). Aromas of sea spray and apricots lead to a sweet and salty palate, with pineapple, crisp pear and white peach flavors. The sensation of sea salt may sound strange, but in combination with the bright acidity and subtle fruit of this Spanish varietal white, it’s really a standout late-summer sipper.
Here’s a tip for travelers headed from the Russian River Valley to the Napa Valley – not such a bad region, really; try the Merlot – or vice-versa: Avoid the Highway 12 bottleneck of afternoon traffic by peeling off on Arnold Drive (or continuing west on Napa Road/Leveroni until you hit Arnold), enjoy the quieter side of the valley, and say hi to Dennis and Diane. Or that other guy.
Eric Ross Winery, 14300 Arnold Drive, Glen Ellen. Tasting room open daily 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. $5 fee, refundable with wine purchase. 707-939-8525.
