Early on, Murphy-Goode got their game on.
Known for wines of consistent quality, sourced from production-oriented vineyards located mainly within Sonoma County, and ticketed at a fair price, they’re also known for their funny hats, of course.
Then there was the “Really Goode Job” Web 2.0 ado. They do seem to tweak their label design a lot, but other than that, you can’t really say anything against them.
The folks at M-G overlord Jackson Family Wines (Kendall Jackson) like to emphasize the origins and individuality of the properties that they’ve acquired. Here, they seem to have worked overtime to emphasize an easygoing image, and the result is quite coherent.
Why am I spending so much time talking about brand management? Because it’s Sauvignon Blanc, folks. Sip up and shut up. It’s a high-production grape, in most cases, and that’s why it’s so relatively affordable. Complain that it’s not Sancerre, and you must sit in the corner and wear a funny hat. No, you do not get to wear the hat with the viking horns.
The 2011 The Fumé, North Coast Sauvignon Blanc ($14) suggests white grapefruit and bitter melon, nose-wise, and zaps the tongue with a tartness to rival Eureka lemon, or nearly so. This one’s not just crisp, it’s puckering-tart. A higher percentage of barrel aging (it’s mostly not) might have mellowed it out; that said, it’s pretty goode.
For me, this is not a sipping wine. I’d want to pair it with something rich, for the acidity to cut through: roasted white fish with butter, or sweet-and-sour Chinese takeout. Murphy-Goode seems to be saying that this is an appetizer wine, as no recipe for the main course is offered. I differ, but I’ll defer.
Recipe: Crab Cakes
- 1/3 cup green onion, thinly sliced
- 1 cup clarified butter
- 1 pound crab meat
- 4 tablespoons red pepper
- 1 egg
- 3/4 cup bread crumbs
- 2 tablespoons heavy cream
- 1 1/2 teaspoons marjoram
- 1 ear fresh corn
Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. Add green onions and remover from heat. Place crab meat in bowl, beat the egg and mix with crab. Add x cup bread crumbs, corn, cream, marjoram, peppers and green onion. Mix by hand.
Form into 8 patties (3″ x 1/2″). Roll patties lightly on remaining bread crumbs. Heat remaining butter in large sauté pan. Place crab cakes in pan (they should sizzle) and cook at lowest setting for 5-6 minutes Cakes should be golden, not brown.
Serve with salsa.