Hand painted label on the MORA Estate Rosato.
unless held up to the light. What does stand out is the art: Each bottle bears a hand-painted design. This one looks like a impressionist fishing fly, or a ballet dancer; no, wait—it’s a lavender-clad lute player at a masked ball! Already this wine is fun, and we haven’t even popped the cork.
MORA Estate is a new venture by local chef Fabiano Ramaci. Little wonder that a chef would choose Barbera. In Italy it’s been an important grape for centuries, but in Sonoma County mainly shows up as part of old-vine “field blends” that were popular with Italian farmers in the 19th century. In hotter regions, it’s valued for retaining high acidity all the way to harvest, and that’s where the chef comes in.
The 2009 Rosato has a racy aroma of dried fruit snack, jam, and smoked meats; with juicy flavors of watermelon and red licorice that accent the core—no, the wall of mouthwatering acidity that falls across the palate like a sheet of rain; finishing crisp and firm. Folks, I think we’re ready for some seafood now. Look, sardines! I don’t think that these are the kind that come in the little tin that my mother gave me last year with the express wish that I get more Omega-3 fatty acids in my diet—but it’s worth a try!
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Stuffed Fried Sardines 
From Chef Fabiano Ramaci
2 tbsp. chopped raisins
1 1/2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 large scallion, minced
1 tbsp. chopped mint
1 tbsp. dry bread crumbs
1 1/4 cup finely chopped serrano ham
1 1/2 tsp. ground fennel
salt and freshly ground pepper
16 sardines, butterflied, spines removed, heads and tails removed (optional)
all-purpose flour for dredging
2 large eggs
1 tbsp. water
extra virgin olive oil for frying
1 In a small bowl mix the raisins with lemon juice, scallion, mint, bread crumbs, chopped ham and ground fennel. Season with salt and pepper. Open a sardine and place a rounded teaspoon of the filing on one side of the fish. Close the sardine, pressing the halves together firmly. Repeat with the remaining sardines and filling.
2 Spread flour in a shallow bowl. Place the eggs in another shallow bowl and beat the water into the eggs. Dredge the sardines in the flour, then dip them into egg mixture to thoroughly coat, letting the excess off. Dredge the sardines again in the flour and shake off any excess.
3 In a large skillet, heat 1/4 inch of olive oil until shimmering. Add half of the sardines and fry over moderately high heat until holden brown and crisp, about 2 minutes per side. Drain sardines briefly on paper towels and transfer to plates. Repeat with remaining sardines.
Serve with lemon wedges and microgreens.
