Years ago, I was making own little batches of wine in the garage behind a big old rented house that I shared with three housemates.
One day, the girlfriend of one of my housemates, a psychology major and a serious type not given to breezy chit-chat, asked me about the wine. Then she told me levelly, “You must have a really strong ego.” Who, me? But why? “Because you can delay your gratification for so long.”
It’s true that the fruit of one’s labors in making red wine, whether it be 10,000 cases or 10 gallons of foot-trodden home-style hooch, cannot rightly be enjoyed for at least one year; in most cases, several more.
It took me another ten years to get wise – or to slip into regression; I can never be sure unless I found that girl to get the diagnosis – and make rosé wine from red grapes.
The brilliant thing about rosé is that it contains all the fresh, fruity flavor of the grape and is ready to drink mere months after harvest, during the warm, false spring that usually precedes summer here in Sonoma County.
It’s also the perfect quaff for these waning days of summer – Wait, this just in: Summer is officially over. Make that, these warm days of a typical Sonoma Indian Summer.
Lynmar Estate’s 2010 Rosé of Pinot Noir ($25), a little more rosy than the average rosé of Pinot, lets loose a cool gust of forest breeze, wet limestone and chalk, with tantalizing notes of strawberry, cherry and pink bubblegum.
The palate is as flavorful and light as cotton candy, with Cosmo cocktail highlights. At 14.3 percent alcohol and a release of just 340 cases, it seems likely that this juice was drawn off in order to concentrate the Pinot Noir vintage of 2010, for which it bodes well. That, you may enjoy in the future, if your ego is strong.
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From Lynmar Estate’s Chef David Frakes
Saffron and Marjoram Arancini di Riso
Makes 30+ 1” balls
Ingredients:
2 c water or stock
1 c Arborio rice
1 egg
7 Tbsp grated parmesan cheese
30 small cubes (1/4” square) Cheddar, Taleggio or Fontina cheese
1 Tbsp chopped marjoram
1 large pinch of saffron
2 Tbsp salt
2 Tbsp butter
Method:
Bring stock to a boil over high heat.
Melt butter in sauté pan and over high heat, add rice, stirring to coat the rice in the butter. Continue stirring until the rice is slightly opaque (3-4 mins).
Add saffron.
Add 4oz of stock to the rice and stir over high heat until the moisture is absorbed.
Continue adding stock to the rice until the rice is slightly overcooked and very sticky.
Remove rice to a parchment covered sheet tray and chill until completely cooled.
After rice is cooled, remove rice to a bowl, adding the egg, parmesan cheese, marjoram, and salt.
Mix completely.
Scoop rice into desired size, insert a cube of cheese, and smooth rice over, rolling each ball into a perfect circle.
Set aside until all the balls are formed.
Place the balls in the refrigerator until ready to cook.
Roll each ball in flour, egg wash, and panko (or other breadcrumb).
Fry in 350 degree vegetable/or corn oil until light golden brown in color. Serve immediately.
Preserved Lemon and Sage Arancini di Riso
Substitute 1 Tbsp minced preserved lemon and 1 Tbsp chopped sage for the saffron and marjoram. Add the preserved lemon and sage to the cooked rice when mixing all ingredients.



