little town in the shadow of some of Sonoma County’s most dramatic mountain scenery—has always been known for their Chardonnay. Lately, their estate vineyard on Sonoma Highway has been planted with warm-climate Rhône varietals for their Esprit du Rhône program, but for Pinot Noir, they head west, and make a “grand detour” into the cool Sonoma Coast. Ah, but that’s a double play in itself: Grand Detour, Illinois, is the site where John Deere, great great grandfather of winery founder Damaris Deere Ford, invented the steel plow.
Sourced from five Sonoma Coast vineyards, the 2008 Grand Detour Pinot Noir ($40) is a medium ruby, tinged with fuchsia. Don’t look for forward aromas of Russian River cherry and spice to leap out of the glass: rhubarb, celery and rain linger cooly in the bowl. The flavors are as cool as a cosmopolitan cocktail, but this wine is all about texture and the lingering, rounded sweet-bodied (but not candied) finish that belies its appearance. Earthy aromas and a subtle palate make this distinguished Pinot a candidate for thoughtful recipe pairing.
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ROAST SALMON FILLETS WITH BACON AND WILD MUSHROOMS 
From Landmark chef Carol Mason
6 pieces wild salmon fillets about 6 ounces each and 1 inch thick
Salt and pepper
6 slices applewood smoked bacon cut in half
Sauce:
2 tablespoons butter
2 slices applewood smoked bacon cut into cubes
1 teaspoon crushed garlic
2 tablespoons minced shallot
2 cups finely chopped wild mushrooms such as shiitake, crimini or chanterelles or a combination of them
2 tablespoons Port wine
2 tablespoons heavy cream
Salt, pepper and a pinch of cayenne
1/4 cup minced parsley
1. Add the bacon cubes to a saute pan with the butter. Cook until the bacon is crisp. Remove it and drains on paper towels and reserve. In the same pan, add the shallots and cook until just softened. Add garlic and mushrooms and cook until mushrooms have softened and rendered their juices. Add the Port and cream and continue cooking until the liquid has almost cooked away. Off heat and correct seasoning with salt, pepper and cayenne. Fold in the parsley at the last. Can be made a day a head of time and reheated just before serving the fish.
2. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Spray a baking sheet with cooking spray. Lay the fish on the sheet and dust with salt and pepper. Place 2 pieces of bacon on top of each piece of fish. Put in oven and cook for 8 to 10 minutes. The fish should remain barely undercooked in the center. Take from oven and remove bacon and keep fish warm. The bacon can be returned to the oven and crisped up.
3. To serve, reheat mushroom sauce. Lay the fillet on warmed plates or a platter. Place a dollop of the mushrooms sauce on each fillet and garnished with the reserved crispy bacon bits.
