Kenwood 2006 Jack London Vineyard Syrah

The dour, glowering wolf staring out from darkness of the bottle is author Jack London’s bookplate image. World-famous for his “dog stories” like Call of the Wild, London was also an energetic political writer and public speaker. In the book John Barleycorn he weighed in on alcohol, a pre-Prohibition hot topic. While he perfunctorily warns the youth of America, “don’t do what I have done” in the final chapter, the bulk is a thrilling memoir of epic drinking set in romantic locales-ferrying demijohns of wine to all-night drinking parties in ships moored in the San Francisco Bay-not entirely suitable for budding teetotalers.

London wrote poetically about the vineyards of his Beauty Ranch, but he was more interested in planting eucalyptus trees, the “wonder wood” of the day. After falling into decline, the vineyards were replanted decades later, and Kenwood has had exclusive rights to this special harvest since 1976. Recently Syrah has joined standbys Cab and Zin. You’ll want to go easy on the 2006 Jack London Vineyard Syrah ($25). This is a wine to savor over a meal-and anyway, it’s not available in demijohns.

It’s tantalizing, almost closed at first. Dark forest berries, cinnamon stick and anise segue into leather, paint and wood smoke the next day open; blackberry and bitter chocolate characterize the subdued, dark flavors. Dry velour-fine tannins counterbalance juicy, crisp red berry acidity. I was thinking Salisbury steak, and it turns out Kenwood is on the same page with me, offering this Lamb Meatloaf recipe. Wolf this down:

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LAMB MEATLOAF

Preheat oven to 400º

3 pounds freshly ground lamb
6 large eggs
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons black pepper
4 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
½ cup Jack London Syrah
½ cup Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
1 ½ cup oatmeal

Combine all ingredients in a large bowl and let rest for 20 minutes. Form into an even loaf on a sheet pan that is covered with parchment. Cover with foil and bake for 45 minutes at 375º. Remove foil and coat the top of the meat loaf with sauce or may be served on the side.

About 10 to 20 minutes before the meatloaf is done, begin the sauce.

1 stick butter
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 cup button mushrooms (about 3 ounces) sliced
½ cup demi-glace
4 tablespoons tomato paste
1 cup Syrah
Salt and pepper

Melt half of the butter in a sauté pan (reserving the other ¼ cup) over medium-high heat, sauté onion until it caramelizes. Add the mushrooms and cook until they become tender and gibe up their juices. Strain and set aside. In another saucepan, whisk together demi-glace, tomato paste and Syrah, simmer over low heat allowing to reduce and thicken. Just before serving sauce, whisk in the remaining ¼ cup of cubed butter and add mushrooms. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed.