mimetically up the rock-studded slopes of the California Coastal range…Or, just gawk at the wide-screen plasma TV in the comfort of the Kendall-Jackson visitor center, where a looped video displays a dizzying flight that dips and rolls over hilltops and ridges and iridescently green mountain vineyards—an eagle’s eye view, if that eagle was toasted to his tail-feathers on cocktail-strength Cabernet.
From up in sunny Knights Valley, K-J sends down this wine of Stygian darkness. The 2005 Highland Estates, Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, “Trace Ridge” ($70) is a cork-crusting, purple-edged Cab in its youth. While aromas of fruit cake, raisins and bitter chocolate suggest grapes well into their maturity, a core of bright acidity braces the palate for the blanketing tannin. The chunky, tongue-coating tannin ultimately finishes broad and chalky, and the heat only barely peaks through. Impressive for fans of this big Cab style, but most won’t want to sip it solo. I thought that spicy hot-pepper salumi brought it into focus; similarly, when going for the grill try something with intense flavors, like this Korean barbecue-style offering from Kendall-Jackson’s kitchen.
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Korean Style Kobe Beef Lettuce Wrap 
Serves 8
1/2 small onion
8 garlic cloves
1 C. honey
2/3 C. soy sauce
1/4 C. red wine
2 Tbsp. whiskey
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. sesame oil
1/2 Tbsp. sesame seeds, toasted
2 1/2 lbs. tri-tip, sliced thin against the grain (or Korean-style ribs, ask your butcher to slice these for you)
2 heads red leaf lettuce
Add the onion, garlic, honey, soy sauce, wine, whiskey, pepper and sesame oil to blender. Blend on high until smooth. Fold in sesame seeds.
In a large bowl, add the marinade and tri-tip. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours.
Preheat grill to high. Remove the tri-tip from the marinade and grill for 1 minute per side. Remove from grill and cover tri-tip with aluminum foil. Allow to rest for 5 minutes. Wrap in individual lettuce cups and enjoy.
