We say a wine has a strawberry aroma, but what does a strawberry smell like? With Muscat wines, we have a similar situation. Leaning on Webster, we learn muscat is a grape with a musky aroma. Leafing over to musk:
musk |məsk| noun
1. a strong-smelling reddish-brown substance that is secreted by the male musk deer for scent-marking and is an important ingredient in perfumery.
Hope that didn’t ruin anyone’s cocktail hour. I wouldn’t call the aroma of Aleatico, an Italian red wine grape that’s a genetic variation of Muscat Canelli, similar to the scent-marking secretions of even-toed ungulates; but it’s definitely one-of-a-kind.
Jacuzzi Family Vineyards, located in an impressive stone villa across the road the family’s Cline Cellars, highlights heritage Italian varietals. Jacuzzi’s Sangiovese, say, or Barbera varietal wine might be more readily located in stores, but the 2006 Sonoma Valley Aleatico ($20) is an aromatic, unusual and enchanting wine that speaks to the spirit of experimentation. With the floral, fruity aromas of a sweet Muscat, the Aleatico is distinctly dry, finishing with Chianti-like briskness and astringency.
For a before or after dinner twist, pair this light to medium-bodied wine with desserts, fruit and appetizers—like baked Brie with walnuts and fruit.
________________________________________________________
Baked Brie with Walnuts 
(adapted from a recipe from the California Walnut Commission)
1 tbsp. butter or olive oil
1/4 tsp. curry powder
1 tbsp. brown sugar
1 shallot, chopped
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
Salt and pepper
1-2 rounds Brie cheese
1. In saucepan over medium heat, heat butter and curry powder. Add shallot and sauté 2 to 3 minutes; stir in walnuts, cooking 1 minute. Remove pan from heat; season with salt and pepper, toss with brown sugar.
2. In ovenproof serving dish, place Brie. Cut thin slice from top to remove rind, if desired. Spread walnut mixture on top of the round.
3. Bake in 350°F oven 10 minutes or until cheese just starts to melt.
4. Serve with fruits like strawberries, kiwi and figs on the side, with whole grain crackers.
