If there’s one thing you must know about Alexander Valley, it’s hot. The river runs through it, leaving alluvial soil underlain with gravel from its indecisive meanderings over 
the millennia, but the heat’s turned up a few degrees compared to the Russian River Valley appellation. This is Cab country. Climatically, it’s more akin to Napa Valley; in most other respects, it’s a li’l different.
One year when I was toiling in the vineyards, in the broiling Alexander Valley heat (er…collecting little Ziplock baggies of grapes for the lab), I discovered a welcome oasis. The landmark cheerful yellow Jimtown Store slakes the thirsts of tourists and winery folk alike, and is a must stop for morning coffee. A funky collection of toys and novelties provides diversion while waiting for their signature olive tapenade and brie sandwich.
A few years ago a new wine tasting room opened on the other end of Jimtown–that is, across the gravel parking lot. About Hawkes I know nothing else except that the family winery seems to have a refreshingly warped sense of humor, and that I thought their Cab tastes like this:
The Hawkes 2004 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) opens with aromas of wine-soaked fruit; dried plum, blackberry and oranges floating in sangria. The warming palate of grilled black cherries, prunes and dried apricot suggests the heat of the valley, but does not finish hot: a cotton-candy textured dry cloud of tannin envelopes evenly, leaving no tongue-numbing swath. With a ripe, lean and vinous body, this Cab would pair well now with a variety of grilled foods, and especially well, now that I’m savoring the details, with this more intricate offering from Jimtown Store chef Peter Brown.
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Cocoa and Spice Crusted Pork Tenderloin with Fig and Blackberry Compote and Sage Scented Polenta
Courtesy of Jimtown Store
Serves 6-8 people
For the Pork Tenderloin:
2 Pork Tenderloins, about 2 ½ lbs total
1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
2 teaspoons salt or more to taste
Prepare a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas grill.
In a small bowl whisk together the cocoa powder, spices, and salt. Pat the tenderloins dry with a paper or clean kitchen towel and sprinkle the spice mixture evenly over the tenderloins. Rest the spice rubbed pork for half an hour in the refrigerator.
While the pork is resting prepare the compote and the polenta.
For the Compote:
¼ cup red wine
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 small bay leaf
1 tablespoon minced shallot
10 ripe figs, stemmed and quartered
1 ½ cups blackberries
pinch of salt
pinch of pepper
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Boil the wine, vinegar, bay leaf and shallot in a small saucepan reducing until only a few tablespoons of liquid remain. Add the figs and the blackberries, lower heat to medium and cook, stirring gently, until the fruit is just heated through, about 3-5 minutes. Remove from heat, add the nutmeg, and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Keep in a warm place until ready to use.
For the Polenta:
1 cup polenta
2 ½ cups water
2 ½ cups whole milk
2 teaspoons salt
pinch of pepper
one small sprig of fresh sage
½ cup (one stick) unsalted butter
In a small (2 quart) saucepot bring the water, milk, salt, pepper, and sage to a boil. Whisk in the polenta, and return to a boil. Turn the heat down as low as possible and continue to whisk for 5 more minutes. Cut the butter into thin slabs and lay on top of the polenta. Cook for 45 more minute, without stirring. The melted butter will keep a skin from forming on top of the polenta, and should be whisked in just before serving.
Grill the pork over a medium hot fire, turning every few minutes, until the pork reaches an internal temperature of 145-155 degrees, medium, or to your preference. Allow to rest, loosely covered with foil, for about 10 minutes before slicing and serving.
To serve, place a cup of polenta on a plate or wide shallow bowl. Slice the tenderloin into ½” thick medallions, fan 4 or 5 pieces next to the polenta and place several spoonfuls of the compote next to the pork.
