It’s not common to find sixth generation winemaking families in California, but Sonoma is no common town. In many ways, it’s were it all began; and it’s a nice surprise to see one of the oldest names in California wine on a label again.
In the days of horses, carts, and steam power, Agoston Haraszthy was the kind of 19th century man who seemed able to switch careers, found a new towns, and cross the ocean before lunchtime. The busy Hungarian cut a wide swath of town-building, innovating, and controversy-making, and founded Sonoma’s Buena Vista Winery in 1857. Agostin himself vanished in Nicaragua, but not before his two sons married neighbor General Mariano Vallejo’s daughters. Now, great-great-grandson Val focuses on Zinfandel, the grape most historically associated with the family name.
Despite the mild-tempered California Grizzly depicted on the label, the Haraszthy 2007 Sonoma County Zinfandel is no Gentle Ben. Initial aromas are fiery, volatile with notes of flambé berries, bright leather and smoke. Jammy flavors of riparian bramble and mushu plum sauce coat the palate on a base of very fine grain tannin, finishing only warm, and smooth. A fine example of how high-proof, spicy Zinfandel can still balance power with finesse.
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Wild Mushroom Ragout
by Sondra Bernstein, proprietor of Estate
Serves 4 – 6 as an appetizer
1 pound wild mushrooms (mixture – your choice), chopped into medium pieces
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon thyme, chopped
1 tablespoon parsley, chopped
½ cup dry vermouth
½ cup chicken/vegetable stock
salt & pepper
2 tablespoons butter
1 each Redwood Hill Camellia wheel (4 oz) can substitute another creamy cheese
1 each baguette, sliced
In a large saucepan, heat olive oil until just before it begins to smoke. Add mushrooms and garlic and sauté until garlic is slightly brown or mushrooms have soaked up all of the oil. Add herbs and toss the mushrooms in pan. Deglaze with vermouth. If the pan ignites, briefly remove from flame until it has burned out. Add the stock and reduce liquid by half.
Season and add butter to pan. In a small crock or bowl slice cheese in half and place on top of each other. Ladle the hot mushroom mixture over the top of the cheese and serve immediately. Serve baguette on the side.
Note: For a great hearty entrée, prepare the mushroom ragout recipe without the cheese and toss with your favorite pasta, top with shaved pecorino cheese.
*Fun fact: The restaurant, formerly The General’s Daughter, was originally the residence of – you guessed it – Natalia Haraszthy née Vallejo.