After Mark Malicki closed his Café Saint Rose in Sebastopol last August, the chef told me he planned to return to catering full time. But now he’s got an even better deal: he’s gone to the French Garden, a straight shot just two miles east of his former restaurant on Bodega Avenue in Sebastopol.
There’s no news yet on the official revamped menu (watch this space!), though Malicki is sure to put his signature touch on the traditional French offerings. He’s a welcome breath of fresh cooking for the restaurant, which, despite being supported by one of Sonoma’s best organic gardens (run by restaurant and farm owner Dan Smith), hasn’t had much luck in finding a chef worthy of the ingredients since opening in 2006.
Malicki is the fourth chef in less than three years, the most recent of whom came on in May.
The big question is, however, will Malicki be able to showcase his eclectic, artsy style that diners have come to know and love? French Garden is a big operation, and Malicki will be hard-pressed to fire up his impromptu, sometimes off-the-wall menus while catering to the Garden’s more traditional clientele.
Here’s hoping, because if anyone can turn things up a notch, it’s this talented chef. Stay tuned for more news and reviews soon.
Details: French Garden, 8050 Bodega Ave., Sebastopol, 707-824-2030, frenchgardenrestaurant.com.