Enkidu 2008 Kiamberell’s Pinot Noir

This little bodega was named for a supporting actor in the ancient Sumerian epic of Gilgamesh. Enkidu (“EN-kee-doo”) was an original wild man, with wild hair and superhuman powers, created by the gods to protect the animals. Local hunters of said animals weren’t pleased with the arrangement—until a wise man suggested they enlist the services of a temple harlot (I, um, guess church socials were a lot different in ancient Sumeria) to seduce and domesticate Enkidu. Conquered by love, Enkidu joined civilization, teamed up with King Gilgamesh and embarked upon epic adventures.

I know what you’re thinking: Does this have something to do with Biodynamics? No, but what about wine? Let’s have a Joseph Campbell moment: The vine was a wild thing of the forest that’s long been tamed; it serves our pleasure as loyally as old Enkidu did Gilgamesh. The rest of the story isn’t very pretty, but I think that it teaches us moderation: Friends don’t let friends slay the Bull of Heaven.

The 2008 Russian River Valley, Kiamberell’s Pinot Noir ($45) is a medium-dark hue, and the aroma is between floral and fruity, with woodsmoke, rose potpourri drifting over dried cherries, cranberries and plum. Sourced from a diminutive vineyard of “Dijon clones” in the Sebastopol hills, this is an A-list example of contemporary Pinots from this area, full of sharply focused dark, woodsy berries, glycerin smoothing out the initial, tingly tongue, and a lengthy finish that’s silky yet firm.

_______________________________________________________________________

Fresh Berry Pork Loin with Roasted Fingerling Potatoes

Kiamberell’s could do double duty as a sipping wine and a dinner wine, with some care with the paring. Let’s ask Phillip Staehle, who as winemaker and owner of Enkidu Wine, ought to know:

“The wine possesses a lot of red fruit, spice and a little herb, so what I like to pair this with is pork loin. Loins should be cut into 1.25-inch servings, paired with a sauce made from fresh raspberries and blackberries.

The berries should be lightly processed or mashed with pestle. It helps to add 1 teaspoon raspberry jam as well. Season pork with salt and pepper and then sear the pork loins in butter over high heat for 1 minute each side, then place the oven proof pan into an oven heated to 400 degrees. The pork should be cooked within 5 – 7 minutes. Test for resistance of the meat. Transfer the loins to a warm plate and cover with aluminum foil to rest.

Take ½ cup of pinot and deglaze the drippings of the pan. After reduced down to about ½, remove from heat, add the berries, 1 teaspoon of good balsamic vinegar and a ½ teaspoon of fresh oregano, thyme or sage, but not all three. Whisk all together and then add the juices that have been collecting in the plate of the resting pork loin. Taste to determine the need for seasoning. Sauce can be thickened if necessary by reducing with heat, otherwise, serve the loins on warmed plates and then coat with the sauce.

A nice accompaniment would be fingerling potatoes cooked with herbs, olive oil, seasoning, garlic in a wrap of aluminum foil either in the oven or on the barbecue. The potatoes should be started first as they take more time for cooking (45 minutes @ 400 degrees). Be sure that the potatoes are wrapped tight to prevent drying out. Hopefully they will cook with some caramelizing on some potatoes. Fresh steamed beets tossed with s&p, olive oil, parsley, feta cheese and a splash of balsamic also works.”