If your grandma was Puerto Rican, this may have been her kitchen specialty: seasoned scrambled eggs with tomatoes, mayonnaise and olive oil.
At least that’s what the dish is called at Santa Rosa’s new Puerto Rican restaurant, El Coqui at Mendocino Avenue and 5th Street. “Grandma’s specialty” is a sandwich, actually, and it’s good stuff, all slippery and wet and chewy against the bread.
To say that Sonoma Country needed a Puerto Rican restaurant may be an understatement. Judging from the crowds lined up since the place opened late last month, owners Tina Jackson and Jacqueline Roman have tapped a hungry market.
And what’s not to love? The bright, colorful place is anchored by a long, tile bar, where folks gather to sip beer, wine, or coco rico (coconut soda) and malta (sweet molasses soda). A handful of tables round things out.
While the names on the menu might be exotic, after your first bite you’ll find some delicious familiarity. “Platanutres con dip de aguacate” is plantain chips with avocado dip, while “palomilla encebollado” is thinly sliced steak smothered in sautéed onions. “Canoas” are whole sweet plantains mounded with ground beef and cheese, while “habichuelas rojas o negros” are red or black beans.
Plan on hearty plates, too, like pollo al horno, which is moist and meaty marinated chicken thighs piled with sweet peppers, or chicharron de pollo, bringing fried chicken teamed with rice, beans, sweet or fried green plantains, and avocado salad. The steak sandwich is terrific, slathered in mashed plantains and avocado on toasted white bread, and here’s an excellent version of a sandwich Cubano, layered with pork, ham, Swiss cheese, pickles, mayo and mustard.
Coqui (pronounced KO-kee) itself, however, is not on the menu. The word translates to a tiny tree frog from Puerto Rico, so named for the beautiful singing sound it makes on cool, dark evenings.
And while you drink and dine, be sure to read the whole story of the frog’s legend that’s printed on the menu. It’s too long to repeat here, but is a heartwarming tale starring Ignacio the Parrot King, and Pepito, a clever and courageous amphibian who brought great honor to all the frogs of the forest.
Totally coqui cool.
Details: El Coqui Puerto Rican, 400 Mendocino Avenue, Santa Rosa, 707-542-8868.
