Duxoup Wine Works 2006 Charbono Print

{October 21st} jamesknight 288 Views - 0 Comments
You can’t rush “slow food,” but did you know there’s a slow wine to sip while you wait? One of a handful of grapes that Slow Food USA marched aboard their “Ark of Taste,” Charbono has a long history in California, yet remains utterly obscure. Last made by a major winery that dissolved years ago, fans of the varietal seek it out from offbeat, artisan producers like Dry Creek Valley’s Duxoup. This gravity-flow, off-the-grid winery, run by the same husband-and-wife team since 1981, is slow, artisan winemaking itself–an LA Times profile from as recent as 1989 is almost all you need to keep up to date!

Duxoup’s 2006 Napa Valley Charbono, Frediani Vineyard ($18.50) has the grape’s initial odd but enticing bouquet of char and leather melded with fruit aromas of plum juice, wild grape skin and licorice. It appears to be forbiddingly deep and dense, but reveals itself on the palate to be silky and smooth, taking on a chocolate-cordial notes on the finish. This representative Charbono is an easygoing partner to earthy Italian fare, Indian cuisine, meat and poultry. Here’s a favorite of Andy Cutter’s that can be turned out on the quick! (Andy recommends preparing a dozen, storing them in freezer ziplock bags and plunking them on the grill after a long day of crush).


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Duxoup Grilled Duck Breasts* Print


4 fresh wild or domestic duck breasts

(leave the skin on!)


Marinade:

1T coarse salt

2T finely minced shallots

2T chopped fresh parsley

1 tsp. crumbled bay leaf

large pinch thyme

4 finely diced garlic cloves

2 tsp. paprika

1 tsp. cayenne

1 tsp. chili powder

freshly ground black pepper


Mix the marinade in a bowl. Roll each duck breast in the mixture. Place, skin side down in a dish, cover and let marinate in the refrigerator for 12-24 hours. Wipe off excess marinade. Grill (or broil) for 1-2 minutes, 4″ from heat (skin side away from heat). Turn breasts over, score skin side and broil about 4 minutes. Remove meat and let rest for a few minutes. Cut in thin diagonal slices.


*Borrowed in equal parts from Paula Wolfert’s “The Cooking of Southwest France” and Paul Prudhomme’s “Louisiana Kitchen.”

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