Santi caused a stir in the tiny town of Geyserville when it opened nine years ago. How could it not? Besides being delicious, it was virtually the only dining choice for the population of 2,100 Geyservillians.
Yet when current owner Doug Swett took it over in 2005, he put such flourish into the rustic-chic Italian trattoria that the simple out-of-the-way cafe turned into a world-class destination.
Now, Swett is taking his show on the road, moving Santi to Fountaingrove Village in Santa Rosa. He’s setting up shop in a new building with Traverso’s gourmet Italian market, which is also relocating from downtown Santa Rosa to the upscale shopping center at Fountaingrove Parkway and Stagecoach Road.
The drive may be different, but Santi will still be Santi. Swett says he’s keeping his existing menu with chef Liza Hinman, focusing on seasonal, local ingredients. He’s also adding a pizza oven, and plans special events along with Traverso’s.
If the joy of construction and permits stay joyful, Swett hopes to be open by late fall or early winter. And with his background, it’s a safe bet things will stay on track: Swett, who grew up in Sonoma and worked in various wine country resort restaurants, returned to the county after seven years enmeshed in the Wolfgang Puck empire as manager of its portfolio of Italian eateries. After opening an eighth restaurant in Los Angeles, “It was time to come home,” Swett says matter-of-factly. “I missed Sonoma.”
As for Geyserville, there will still be plenty of reasons to keep it on the dining map. Swett plans to turn the original Santi space into another restaurant, though he’s not decided exactly what that will be yet.
And of course there’s Diavola, the “old world” trattoria that’s a more casual offshoot from former Santi chef Dino Bugica. If you haven’t gone, then go now, for artisan wood oven baked thin-crust pizzas, uncommon nibbles like ox tongue and pork belly, and a variety of seasonal bites like shiny red beet chunks sweetened with sheep’s milk ricotta.
Details: Santi, 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, tavernasanti.com, 707-857-1790. Diavola, 21021 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 707-814-0111, diavolapizzeria.com.