Del Carlo 2006 Old Vine Zinfandel & Marinated Tri-Tip

So much is made of “terroir.” Terroir is everywhere. Your back yard has terroir. Will it make great wine? Hard to say; tear up the lawn and find out. I find regions much more interesting where it

concerns Zinfandel. For instance, many Sierra Foothills Zins seem angular and hot; Napa Zins fat, with furry tannins like their Cabs, and I was pleased to find that a wine writer who gets paid a lot more than me to think about such things agrees. I’m particularly partial to Sonoma and Russian River Valley, but Dry Creek Valley has won the “most synonymous with Zinfandel” popularity contest, for now. Many family names, often Italian, are in turn synonymous with old vine, Dry Creek Zinfandel. So who is this new Del Carlo, doing business only since 2005? Just another family name of four-generation Dry Creek growers, the Teldeschis. Say no more!

The De Carlo 2006 Dry Creek Valley, Old Vine Zinfandel ($32) typifies big, brambly Dry Creek Zin, finishing with a nice twist. The color of blackberries in August, with warm aromas of blackberry jam, dried black fruits, figs, with black cherry plus vanilla joining the party after getting some air. The rich, brambleberry flavors are ripe but not raisined, and although there’s a little whisky heat back-end at first, the acidity comes in to loosen up the grippy tannin, for a long, lingering and what I like to call lip-smacking finish. Barbecue is prescribed by rote for Zin: this one ought to work better than most.

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Marinated Tri Tip

from Del Carlo Winery

1 t. fresh thyme

1/4 c. fresh rosemary

3 fresh sage leaves

5 cloves of garlic pressed in a garlic press

1/2 c. finely chopped onion

1/2 t. salt

1/4 t. pepper

3 T. olive oil

1 1/2 c. Del Carlo Old Vine Zinfandel

Tri Tip (2-3 lbs.)

Finely chop the thyme, rosemary and sage. Mix in the remaining ingredients. Add the meat and marinate for 4 to 5 hours. While grilling, baste with the marinade.