There’s something about an earthy, woolly Syrah on a cool fall evening that makes me hunger for a heaping plate of shepherd’s pie. But, what’s so woolly about it? You might have noticed that some wines grip your tongue and hang on; others finish with silky smoothness. Tannin comes in all shapes and textures, so critics come up with all manner of descriptors to, maybe, help out: Grippy, sandpapery, fine-grained, course-grained, cottony, and don’t forget cotton candy. Woolly wines (not as in wild and woolly, but as in, a comfy old sweater) are well-textured but ultimately soft and warming.
And as for cashmere, Cline Cellars has got it covered. Their “Cashmere,” a soft and juicy Rhône style blend of Mourvedre, Grenache and Syrah, is a nicely priced, feel-good wine and then some (the label’s faint pink ribbon signifies that proceeds support a good cause, the Breast Cancer Network of Strength).
But this review is about Cline’s 2007 Sonoma County Syrah ($12). Syrah, the misunderstood beauty that makes the surest Cab customers shy, winemakers blush, and distributers scoff, can be found at deep discounts these days; this isn’t yesterday’s $12 wine. Good for us, Cline just can’t slow down when they’ve got a good thing going.
An opaque, purple-tinged burgundy hue, this Syrah has subtle, dark aromas of black pepper and sage; tipping the glass reveals smoked meats and holiday fruit cake, with dried blackberry, plum and cured fig on the palate. The mouthfeel is all about warmth and soft, woolly tannin.
Now, about northern Rhône-style Sonoma Syrah and shepherd’s pie: My own recipe is dependable, simplified and quick–you don’t want to finish the bottle while fussing with the ingredients–and there’s still the pie to bake. I like it vegetarian style, but it can be enjoyed with ground lamb as well.
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Easy Veggie Shepherd’s Pie
Serves 2-3
Filling:
- 12 oz. package of soy “veggie ground” (available from Yves or Lightlife brands) OR ground lamb
- 1 package vegetarian beef flavor gravy (substitute beef or homemade gravy. Do not substitute chicken gravy!)
- 1/2 cup peas, fresh or frozen
- 2 carrots, sliced
- 1 small to medium turnip, chopped to 3/8 inch pieces
- 1/2 cup chopped broccoli
- 5 crimini mushrooms, sliced
- 2-3 shallots, coarsely chopped
- 1/2 tsp. dried thyme, or 1 tsp. fresh thyme
- salt, pepper, olive oil
Mashed potatoes:
- 4 medium potatoes
- 1/2 stick butter
- 2/3 cup half-and-half
- even easier option: yes, instant mashed potatoes work pretty well in this recipe, especially after browning
Preheat oven to 350. Boil salted potatoes until soft and mashable; drain and mash with butter and half-and-half on low heat, add salt, pepper (crushed garlic, optional) and whip until smooth and creamy.
Boil one cup water with gravy mix and stir until it pours slowly from but does not stick to a spoon; or prepare other gravy according to taste.
Sauté veggie ground or lamb with shallots and thyme on medium heat until lightly browned. Spread on the bottom of an oiled 9 inch square baking pan, then add vegetables, distributing evenly. Pour gravy over filling; spread mashed potatoes over top. Cover with foil and bake for about 40 minutes, then remove foil to brown mashed potatoes for ten minutes.
Serve in squares, as intact as possible (don’t sweat it) with spatula. Enjoy with a warm, woolly Syrah!