The Captûre venture strives to create “Bordeaux tradition” in the “Frontier spirit.” Wines are primarily Cabernet and blends from an estate vineyard on Alexander Valley’s Pine Mountain, and will be available in 2011 to mailing list members (prices TBA). All very exclusive, but the Sauvignon Blanc is ready rock, as evidenced by the empty bottle on my sideboard. Labeled California in origin, it’s a SauvBlanc of two counties and two minds. I’m guessing Sonoma County’s Kick Ranch lends jasmine blossoms, white grapefruit, lychee, and keeps it lean; while the Lake County half of the blend is full of tropical fruit, pineapple, white apricot, orgeat syrup. A sweet sensation on the palate and a little heat on the finish don’t dissuade the obsessed sipper any more than the increasingly hot and flimsy leaves in the center of the artichoke. But leave that heart alone—here’s a recipe from Zazu’s Duskie Estes with the meatiness to match this big Blanc.
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Zazu’s Backyard Tomato & Basil ALBACORE TUNA CONSERVA 
Serves 4–6
for the tuna conserva:
1 pound albacore tuna, cut into 4 pieces
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 teaspoon chili flake
1 tablespoon ground coriander seed
8 cups pure olive oil
1 head of garlic, cut in 1/2
1 lemon, sliced
1 orange, sliced
1 bay leaf
For the verjusnette:
1/3 cup verjus, (available from www.terrasonoma.com or substitute champagne vinegar)
1 shallot, minced
2/3 cup quality extra virgin olive oil
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the panzanella:
2 cups hand torn croutons, soaked in just enough milk to moisten
1 pound heirloom tomatoes, cut however
1/2 pound cucumber, sliced we prefer persian, lemon, or english
2 bunches arugula
1/4 cup olives
To make the tuna conserva, on medium heat, bring the oil up to a simmer with the garlic, orange, lemon, and bay. Meanwhile season the tuna with the spices. Add the tuna to the oil and remove from the heat. Let come to room temperature and then refrigerate. The fish should be just cooked through.
To make the “verjusnette,” in a small bowl combine the verjus and shallot, whisk in the extra virgin olive oil. Season to taste w/salt and pepper.
To make the croutons, preheat the oven to 375. Squeeze the croutons, to remove any excess milk. Toss in olive oil, salt and pepper, and bake on a baking sheet until golden, about 10 minutes.
Toss the croutons with the tomato, cucumber, arugula, and “verjusnette.” Arrange on the plates, top with pieces of the tuna and drizzle with a little extra “verjusnette.” Sprinkle olives about.
