Inside Sonoma

The good news is that a meal at Café les Jumelles now requires a shorter drive for most Sonoma County residents. The cozy comfort food café has relocated a wee bit west, from Monte Rio to Guerneville.

The bad news is that it’s taken over the space that used to house Nit’s Thai Creations, that amazing outpost of unbelievably delicious and elegant Southeast Asian cooking in the most unlikely setting of the back of a river-rat bar called Rios.

Yet if it’s sad that chef-owner Nit Bynum has packed up her tom kha pak and trout sam rod, it’s happy that it’s been to make way for Jumelles’ homemade, diner-style favorites.

There’s a near cult-following for the Café’s breakfasts. The loyal crowds tuck into enormous omelets, corned beef hash with eggs, huevos rancheros, crispy hash browns, eggs Benedict, and biscuits and gravy with rabid abandon.

Through the rest of the day, regulars rave about the crunchy garlic-rosemary fries kissed with real rosemary, the homemade pickles, hamburgers, grilled ham and cheese, and honest ice cream milkshakes. Between a good-size menu and daily specials, it’s a firm bet that nearly any diner can find something to love. Perhaps Cajun popcorn shrimp, spicy wings, or chicken Caesar? Maybe almond-encrusted pork, seafood pasta in buttery wine sauce, or baked pork stuffed with blue cheese and herbs and a sweet potato- apple pancake on the side?

For dessert, banana splits are legendary.

Just don’t come in a rush. As well known as Café Les Jumelles is for its tasty home cooking, it’s no secret, either, than pacing can be sloooow and easy. Just sit back, relax, and enjoy the beautiful views of the Russian River from the deck.

Details: Café les Jumelles, 15025 River Road, Guerneville, 707-869-9511.