Blackstone 2008 Sonoma Reserve Chardonnay with leek gratin

Refund? I’ll bet that many wineries would respond to such a request the same way that the small-town, used car salesman father did in the classic 1979 cycling film Breaking Away: screaming “Refund? Refund?!” indignantly, until hospitalized. Goofy scene, but always good for a chuckle. But who’s laughing at Blackstone? To wit: “Blackstone wines are consistent, reliable, and balanced. In short, we make wines you can count on. With our money-back guarantee … if you are not fully satisfied with your Blackstone purchase, we’ll send you a refund.”

Wow, what’s that address? Never mind, this wine from Blackstone’s Sonoma County program is a keeper.

A pale lemon-gold, the 2008 Sonoma Reserve Chardonnay ($17) comes on cool and spicy, like a slice of apple pie from the cold case. Mild aromas of butterscotch, Eureka lemon, a slice of toast and baked apples still doesn’t prepare the palate for the impressive sensation of carbohydrate on the palate—but as soon as I thought, damn, this is as sweet as candy, the lingering, lively finish of hazelnut, vanillin, pineapple and butterscotch left an overall balanced impression. When my buddy Pepe stopped by in time for a glass, he said that he “would not hesitate to spend seventeen dollars to take this wine with a girl on a picnic to the beach.” This is high praise from a guy who generally holds it under $12—for a case of beer.

Part of Blackstone’s helpfully seasonal recipe pairing program, this one is from Chef Joe Wittenbrook of The Culinary Salon. They suggest their Sauvignon Blanc, but I’m going to go crazy here and suggest this rich gratin be paired with the Chardonnay. If you don’t like it…no, no refund.

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Leek Gratin with Beaufort Cheese (Blanc de Poireaux en Gratin de Beaufort)

6 to 8 Servings

2 Tbs. butter

2 Tbs. flour

2 to 2 1/2 cup milk

Salt, white pepper and nutmeg

2 tsp. sherry vinegar

3 Tbs. grated parmesan

6 ounces Beaufort or Gruyere cheese, grated

1/2 cup panko bread crumbs

In a saucepan, heat butter until melted, stir in flour and cook for 2 to 3 minutes.

On moderate heat, add in milk whisking continuously.

Add in salt, white pepper and nutmeg.

Continue cooking on low heat (whisking continuously) until sauce begins to thicken.Add vinegar and the cheeses. Set aside. Rub a gratin dish with butter and layer in the leeks. Cover with sauce and sprinkle with panko bread-crumbs.

Bake at 400 degrees for about 15 to 20 minutes or until golden brown.

Leek Gratin

4 large leeks, split lengthwise, washed and cut into 4 inch pieces (use the white and light green part of the leek only)

3 to 4 cups water or light vegetable stock for braising

1/2 cup white wine vinegar

4 to 6 parsley stems

Salt and pepper

1 to 2 bay leaves

1 to Tbs. oil or butter for baking dish

Fill a large sauté pan or braising pan 2 inches deep with water or stock, add vinegar, bay leaves, parsley stems, salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil and submerge leeks into the braising liquid.

Reduce to a simmer and braise the leeks covered for about 12 to 15 minutes.

When tender, remove from pan and drain on paper towels. Reserve for assembly.