There really is a sleepy little hamlet in the heart of Sonoma Valley as pictured on tetra packs of the widely available Glen Ellen Wine. The Benziger family sold the successful brand in 1993, but they stayed put-and also pushed on, creating ever deeper connections between their wine and picturesque land. Benziger’s estate wines are Demeter certified, meaning they adhere to rigorous Biodynamic standards: Some of these practices are like organic farming, others go further: coordinating with the lunar calendar, and burying compost in cow horns. The goal is to harmonize the grapevine with natural cycles, they say, “enlivening and increasing the intensity of the living forces that surround a vine above and below the ground.”
Yes, that sometimes includes gnomes that dwell underground, but whether due to their efforts or the winemaker’s, the 2005 Ooanapais Estate Sonoma Mountain Red ($50) is one gorgeous wine. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc is rustic in practice-native yeast, unfiltered, with a thick crown of purple crust on the cork-but it’s anything but rough. The dark, purple-ruby spirit displays aromas of licorice, fruit liqueur, ollalieberry, grape skins and wet stone-maybe ox blood?-with the lively, lean acidity of Ethiopian Harrar coffee. It all comes together with seamless rush on the finish: velvety, pleasantly dry, with a sense of completeness.
This calls for earthy, simple fare like grilled grass-fed beef with wine-mushroom sauce — hey, there’s nothing vegetarian about Biodynamics (remember the cow horns?) — or, given a little lead time, check out this recipe from executive chef Justin Everett.
PAPPARDELLE WITH BRAISED SHORT RIB & HORSERADISH
Serves 4
Red Wine Marinade:
1 bottle of red wine (750 ml)
1 large carrot – peeled and coarsely chopped
1 onion – coarsely chopped
1 leek
4 cloves of garlic – coarsely chopped
3 sprigs of thyme – whole
1 bay leaf – whole
5 black peppercorns – lightly crushed
Short ribs:
1 beef short rib (2 lbs)
3 tsp canola oil
salt & pepper
3 qts of veal stock
Pasta:
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
12 oz pappardelle
2 tbsp butter
1/4 cup cream
2 cups short ribs braising liquid
grated fresh horseradish
THE DAY BEFORE:
Preparing the Marinade:
Mix red wine, carrot, onion, leek, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, and black pepper into a large bowl. Add short ribs, cover with cling wrap, and place in the refrigerator overnight.
THE DAY OF:
Preheat oven to 375 F, remove rib from marinade and set on kitchen towel. Pat dry and season with salt and pepper. Lightly sear each side of the short rib in the canola oil. Place the seared short rib in large roasting pan. Add the vegetable from the marinade. Cover with 3 parts veal stock to 1 part red wine marinade. Cover with foil.
Braise for 3.5 hours. Let cool for 1 hour. Remove short rib from liquid. Strain braising liquid, discarding vegetables, and place liquid over medium heat. Reduce sauce by half.
Boil the papperdelle in salted water for approximately 8 minutes. Careful not to over cook. Pasta should hold its shape and be firm to the touch.
Add two cups of the braising liquid in a pan and reduce for 3 minutes on medium heat.
Add the ¼ cup of cream and the short rib back to the pan. Toss in butter, cheese and parsley.
Season with salt and pepper. Distribute evenly into four bowls. Finish by grating the horseradish over each serving.