When I tasted the 2006 Spicerack Syrah, I mused that it might have been precision-tuned to prove a point: With subtle fruit steeped in minerals, obsessively balanced with an efficient finish, it could serve as a retort to the simplistic polarity of “overripe oak-bomb California wines” vs. so-called terroir-driven, mineral-packed Euro product. Knowing the winemakers, this would make sense. Jonathan and Susan Pey’s most talked-about wine is a bone dry, low alcohol Marin County Riesling, but their Scenic Root Winegrowers portfolio includes other regions and varietals. Their Syrah is aged in “neutral” barrels, meaning that they impart little or no oak. This is said to be risky because if there are any flaws in the fruit, they can’t be camouflaged with smokey wood.
In a token effort to forestall aforementioned bias for this wine, I tasted the 2007 Spicerack “Punchdown” Sonoma Coast Syrah ($25) blind against a reliably decent major-label Syrah. But the gig was up with one look at Spicerack’s deeper color, ruby red on the edges. It opens with warm, dark shades of strawberry, raspberry, olallieberry; suggests sage, fig, leather and stone, and shows a little Rhônish violet and white pepper. Fresh and lively on the tongue, with acidity that suspends the flavors and offsets the modest, fine tannin; it’s gone before I know it, and I’m ready for more. The 2007 is somewhat richer than the 2006–but a world away from port-like Syrahs, and is a fast friend at the dinner table.
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Grilled Lamb Sirloin
From Jonathan and Susan Pey
Ingredients:
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
1 1/2 teaspoons chopped rosemary
1 garlic clove, chopped
Freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
Two 8-ounce lamb sirloins, butterflied
In a food processor, combine the lemon juice, lemon zest, rosemary, garlic and 1 teaspoon of pepper and pulse to blend. With the machine on, slowly pour in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil until a paste forms. Spread tablespoon of the lemon paste all over the lamb and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
Season the lamb with salt and grill over a medium-high fire for 8 minutes, turning once, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the meat registers 125° to 130° for medium rare. Transfer the lamb to a platter and let rest for 5 minutes.
Carve the lamb across the grain into 1-inch slices and serve with steamed spinach and roasted potatoes tossed with sea salt and olive oil.
Serves 4